A Peach of a Salad

What a lovely way to start a meal


Peaches are at the peak of ripeness right now. But you don't need to wait for dessert to enjoy them.  

Here is a simple and delicious way to start a meal this labor day -- which requires very little labor!

For each serving, choose a peach that feels soft and heavy. Peel it if you like. 

Cut the peach into wedges. 

Crumble feta cheese over the peaches.  

Drizzle over some of your favorite olive oil. 

Finally, tear some leaves of parsley to sprinkle over the plate.

Just Divine, that's all!

A Kir

Many are familiar with the french apéritif, which originated in the "Bourgogne", or Burgundy region of France, where one puts a splash of Crème de Cassis into a glass of cold white wine to create a "kir".  

For a Kir Royale, one splashes the berry liqueur into a glass of champagne. Cassis is made with black currants. Add more cassis, for more sweet berry flavor.

I love this glass jug of Cassis de Bourgogne I bought in France years ago. When it is empty, I rinse it out and refill it.

 

But, guess what? One needn't stop at the berry flavor. Liquers made of different fruits can be added to wine, champagne, or sparkling water.

At Les Trois Etoiles, or Three Star in Saint-Paul, we found many more options to flavor our white wine.  A hobby of distilling fruits into liqueurs has turned into an all encompassing business for this couple.  As Monsieur creates the flavorful product, Madame runs the shop.

These fruit liqueurs have an alcohol level of 17 - 20%.  In addition to liqueurs they sell sumptuous flavored vinegars and olive oils.



One of our favorites was this pungent shallot flavored vinegar. The shallot flavor was fresh and pungent.

A filled wineglass is placed next to each of the traditional containers, so one can smell the liquids.

Upon request, one can sample the beverages as well.   The tastes of these liqueurs were exquisite.  They have truly managed to capture the essence of the fresh, ripe fruit.  They have many different bottle sizes, filled to order.

We decided to try a little peach liqueur,

and a splash of pear,

we couldn't possibly leave without a bottle of yellow plum liqueur,

and the cherry liqueur was so freshly intense, it had to come along as well.

And now, we always have a little taste of France to savor and share. 

Kir, anyone?

Les Trois Etoiles also sells spirits, such as Armagnac, made by others.

Fruit liqueurs can be found in some in liquor stores and wine stores in the US.. 

One of our favorite producers in the US is Clear Creek distillery out of Oregon.

These liqueurs are lovely straight up after dinner as well.

Giacometti & Maeght

Art Walk on the Côte d'Azur




For decades, artists have been attracted to the light, natural beauty and relaxed lifestyle of the French Riviera. Long before it became known for the glitzy-glam associated with the region today, the attraction was more for the light and the natural settings. Thankfully, there is still plenty of natural beauty, art and authentic culture to be experienced.


Don't get me wrong! I adore a chance to soak up all of the sun and swanky-spice of the Côte d'Azur beach clubs, and of course the shopping. 


But I like to have options!

After lunch at La Columbe d'or, we took a stroll up the hill, to visit the Giacometti & Maeght, a treasure chest of contemporary art, located in the foothills of the Alps, overlooking the Côte d'Azur.

It was a sultry day and the cicadas were screeching, and it was a lovely walk up through this wooded neighborhood, just above St. Paul de Vence.

Even before entering the modern white building we were greeted with art, displayed with the cooling trees and lush green lawns.

These bold Chagall-style murals flanked the entrance.

Here's a closer look, it is actually a mosaic made with irregular, colorful glass squares.

The building is modern, angular and white, with windows and water, that make it a pleasure to wander. It is filled with stunning pieces. Here are a couple of my favorites.

You can't help but be entranced by this 10'x13' painting by Marc Chagall which dominates the entrance of the museum. This painting is his life tale. This piece epitomizes the light, color and passions of the region.

I could gaze for hours at the layers of faded shades of grey and white and the subtle illustrations of this Giacometti.

I think my favorite piece was this Nu debout (standing nude).

I love a piece with mixed mediums, and layers of texture and color.

The wood on which it is painted adds color, warmth and texture.

The Maeght-Giacometti is a true jewel.  Click on Gicometti & Maeght for more information.

La Colombe d'Or

“Sensual but unpretentious dining that reminds guests that their host is a family” 


from the book La Colombe d’Or


What a pleasure it was to have a chance to dine again at one of the truly spectacular restaurants in the world during our visit to St. Paul de Vence, La Colombe d'Or. Over the years, this restaurant and Inn has become a temple to art, food, and the art de vivre or the art of living. A meal here is completely satisfying on many different levels.


Back in the early 1920's, the aspiring artist, Paul Roux opened this Inn and restaurant in an ancient building at the foot of the ramparts of St. Paul de Vence. Roux enjoyed the company of his artistic colleagues and often allowed them to dine in exchange for art. With his generosity, delicious meals and hospitality, this became a favorite spot for many of the artists painting in the region.


Paul Roux died in the early 1950's but the traditions he established live on.  His son Francis and daughter-in-law have continued to operate this tranquil mecca. Over the years, the restaurant has become quite a famous spot to see and be seen along the Côte d'Azur. Read more details on the history here.






All are welcome to peek in this window of the solid garden gates, to the sunny terrace that seats 100 people. 


La Colombe d' Or is a place where guests are encouraged to linger over their meals and the peaceful setting.  They only book one seating per meal so that guests never feel rushed. As a result, reservations can be hard to come by.














































We were happy to have a seat inside the gate.

and beneath the umbrellas.

We chose to start with their specialty, a rustic crudites. The basket of vegetables are presented au natural with a side of flavorful anchovy sauce in which to dip.

This would be so easy to serve at home, and a little self-serve opportunity always helps guests to relax and interact. The basket comes with a few sharp knives, so everyone can cut and trim their vegetables to their liking. There are always a couple of hard boiled eggs in the basket as well, in case someone needs a protein fix. 


I think the raw artichoke is intended to be more of a decoration.  

The other famous starter is a selection of regional tastes brought to the table in small ceramic containers to be shared. These might include baked Provencal tomatoes, beans, anchovies, roasted aubergines and peppers.


The house wine was a wonderful accompaniment to the coming meal.

served upon this gold crested china featuring an illustration of the village.

 ,

The cuisine is very simply prepared and presented, with an emphasis on fresh, regional ingredients.  I loved my lunch of a cold poached cod, garnished with sea grass, simply steamed vegetables and boiled eggs,

with plenty of glossy, garlicky aioli on the side. Click on the name for our recipe for aioli.

My fellow diner had a flavorful steak with an outstanding sauce béarnaise and a tender side of potatoes daupinoise. Click on the name for our recipe for sauce béarnaise.

Now, for the visit inside these hallowed walls.

We found a familiar face, in the cozy bar area, where the seats are padded with glove soft leather cushions.

Wouldn't you love to nestle into these banquettes in front of the fire on a cool autumn evening?

Or to dine by this fireplace, filled with a roaring blaze?

In addition to wonderful food and demonstrating the "art of living", La Colombe d'Or is known for their unique private modern art collection, some pieces are by the Paul Roux, some were given in exchange for meals and rooms.

 The juxtaposition of modern pieces in an ancient setting  is a theme seen throughout the village, and beyond.

No matter how many times I have the chance to gaze at these pieces, with the privacy and proximity, I always feel a bit awestruck.

The first painting is by Paul Roux.

This Picasso is perhaps the most famous piece.

A couple of Calders.

Years of traffic have smoothed and polished these stone steps to la toilette.

Back out into the sunshine, for a sip of the famous orange liqueur.

Au bientot!

In addition to dining, La Columbe d'Or has13 rooms and 12 apartments. Click on the name for more information.